Investigation into fabric spirality in various knitted fabrics and its effect on efficiency in apparel manufacturing

Abstract

The present study aimed to comparatively determine fabric spirality in single jersey knitted fabrics manufactured from different fibers and fiber blends under the same conditions as well as its effect on the efficiency of apparel manufacturing. To that end, the fabric spirality was studied for 18 different fabrics manufactured from nine different fiber blends (100% Organic Cotton, 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Modal, 95% Viscose-5% PES, 50% Cotton-50% Viscose, 50% Modal-50% Organic Cotton, 70% Viscose-30% PES, 80% Viscose-20% PES) at 2 different knitting densities. In order to determine the effect of fabric spirality on the marker plan, a t-shirt model was selected and a total of 8 different fabric marker plans were prepared in 2 different assortments and at 3 different spirality rates. Finally fabric efficiency and the effect of spirality on unit fabric consumption were investigated for all fabric marker plans. In the end, the greatest spirality was observed for 100% viscose fabrics. It was also determined that as the fabric spirality increases (5%, 7% and 10%), CAD efficiency decreases by rates of 2.4%, 3.68% and 5.25%, respectively, in comparison with the marker plan for the fabric not exhibiting spirality. © 2019, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres. All rights reserved.